伦敦艺术大学切尔西艺术学院纺织设计硕士负责人Lorna Bircham教授讲座

LORNA BIRCHAM 教授

自由编织设计师Freelance Weave Designer

伦敦艺术大学切尔西艺术学院纺织设计硕士课程负责人Course Leader of MA Textile Design, Chelsea College of Arts, University of the Arts London

       Lorna Bircham自1978年从皇家艺术学院毕业以来,一直是切尔西艺术学院(UAL)教学团队的成员,同时也是MA纺织设计课程的负责人。作为一名自由编织设计师和顾问,她的工作在她为学生专业知识做出贡献的过程中发挥了重要作用,并在1996年成立时为Ted(纺织环境设计)档案馆提供了初步资源。




About 伦敦艺术大学UAL

  切尔西艺术与设计学院(Chelsea College of Art and Design),原名伦敦学院,成立于1986年,是全世界最优秀的艺术学院之一。切尔西艺术与设计学院在教与学方面的良好声誉吸引着世界各地的学生、教师和访问学者。许多著名的艺术家和设计师的事业就是从切尔西艺术与设计学院开始的。

     切尔西艺术与设计学院是全世界最优秀的艺术学院之一,现隶属于伦敦艺术大学 UAL(University of The Arts London)。伦敦艺术大学由地处伦敦致力于艺术、设计及其它相关活动的七所学院联合而成。这七所专业学院是:伦敦传媒学院、伦敦时装学院、坎伯威尔艺术学院、英国切尔西艺术与设计学院、温布尔登艺术学院和中央圣马丁艺术与设计学院,以及2018年新增的创意计算机学院。这七座学院各自拥有不同的专业强项、来自世界各地优秀专业的老师和拥有强大的硬件资源。它们强强联合共同使伦敦艺术大学成为了世界上规模最大的艺术、设计、大众传播以及相关技术的教育中心。

   


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        5月13日下午,学院很荣幸的邀请到伦敦艺术大学切尔西艺术学院纺织设计硕士课程负责人Lorna Bircham教授在19-531进行了一次讲座。Lorna Bircham教授和我们分享了TED(纺织环境设计Textiles Environment Design)的十条设计法则。

TED~q~S TEN

1.Design to Minimise Waste

  最大限度减少浪费的设计

2.Design for Cyclability

  可循环性设计

3.Design to Reduce Chemical Impacts

  减少化学影响的设计

4.Design to Reduce Energy and Water Use

  减少能源和水的使用设计

5.Design that Explores Clean / Better Technologies

  探索清洁/更好技术的设计

6.Design that Looks at Models from Nature & History

  从自然和历史的角度看模型的设计

7.Design for Ethical Production

  道德生产设计

8.Design to Reduce the Need to Consume

  减少消费需求的设计

9.Design to Dematerialise and Develop Systems &         Services

  设计非物质化和开发系统与服务

10.Design Activism

  设计能动性


http://www.tedresearch.net/teds-ten/

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1

Design to Minimise Waste

最大限度减少浪费的设计

How to reduce the many kinds of waste created within the fashion and textiles industries,both pre and post consumer waste and the wider issue now very current-plastic and marine pollution?

如何减少时尚和纺织行业内产生的各种废物,包括消费前和消费后的废物,以及目前最广泛的塑料和海洋污染问题?

This strategy encourages designers to minimise the waste that is created in the textile industry, both pre and post consumer. It includes zero waste cutting and recycling but it also introduces the idea at the outset that we need to avoid producing stuff that doesnt work, that people dont want.

该策略鼓励设计师尽量减少纺织行业(消费前和消费后)产生的浪费。它包括零废物切割和回收,但它也在一开始就引入了我们需要避免生产不起作用的东西,人们不想要的东西。

“Of the total textile fibre produced, up to 65% is lost, post-consumer, to landfill, incineration or composting, which represents between 400,000 and 700,000 tonnes per annum in the UK. Of this, at least 50% is said to be recyclable。”

“在生产的纺织纤维总量中,高达65%的损失,消费后,垃圾填埋,焚烧或堆肥,在英国每年产生400,000至700,000吨。其中,据说至少有50%是可回收的“

——Allwood, 2006

Examples:

· Slow design

  设计缓慢

· Design for long-life and short-life applications

  设计用于长寿命和短寿命应用

· Zero waste cutting

  零浪费切割

· Design with enhanced aesthetic value

  设计具有增强的美学价值

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2

Design for Cyclability

可循环性设计

How to up-cycle existing garments and design with virgin materials in anticipation of future recycling

如何循环利用现有服装和原材料设计,以期日后回收利用

This strategy explains how when you design for cyclability, the thought process is very different, but totally connected to, the practice of recycling textiles.

这个策略解释了当你设计可循环性时,思维过程与回收纺织品的做法完全不同,但完全相关。

Design for upcycling is about "not merely conserving the resources that went into the production of particular materials, but adding to the value embodied in them by the application of knowledge in the course of their recirculation"

升级回收的设计是“不仅仅是保存用于生产特定材料的资源,而是通过在再循环过程中应用知识来增加其中体现的价值”

——Murray,2002

Examples

· Design for recycling / upcycling

  回收/再循环设计

· Design for mono materiality

  单一材料设计

· Design for disassembly for the closed-loop systems of the future

  设计用于未来闭环系统的拆卸

· Think re-useable/non-invasive installation or renewal

  考虑可重复使用/非侵入式安装或更新

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3

Design to Reduce Chemical Impacts

减少化学影响的设计

How can the use of harmful chemicals at every stage in the life of the product be reduced by design. Choosing appropriate materials and processes to minimise environmental impacts.

如何在产品寿命的每个阶段减少有害化学品的使用。选择适当的材料和工艺,以尽量减少环境影响。

This strategy is about appropriate material selection and processes for any product to minimise environmental impacts.

该战略涉及适当的材料选择和任何产品的过程,以尽量减少对环境的影响。

“One cupful of pesticides and fertilisers are used in the production of the average t-shirt”

平均T恤生产中使用了一杯杀虫剂和肥料”

——Observer,2005

Examples:

· Seek organically produced materials

  寻求有机生产的材料

· Use mechanical technology to create non-chemical decorative surface pattern

  使用机械技术创造非化学装饰表面图案

· Create effects to replace materials and processes known to be harmful

  创建效果以替换已知有害的材料和过程

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4

Design to Reduce Energy and Water Use

减少能源和水的使用设计

How to conserve water and energy in the production and use and maintenance of textiles

如何在纺织品生产、使用和维护中节约用水和能源

Energy consumption and water usage in the textile industry are extremely high and occur at each stage of the lifecycle of textiles – at the production stage, in the use phase (where consumers use and care for textiles and garments) and at the end stage (which covers either disposal and/or re use of the material.

纺织工业的能源消耗和用水量非常高,发生在纺织品生命周期的每个阶段——生产阶段,使用阶段(消费者使用和护理纺织品和服装)和最后阶段(包括处理和/或重新使用材料

“60% of the total energy consumption in the lifecycle of a t-shirt occurs in the use phase. i.e washing, ironing, drying ”

“T恤生命周期中总能耗的60%发生在使用阶段。即洗涤,熨烫,烘干“ 

——Allwood et al, 2006

Examples:

①In the production phase在生产阶段

· Exhaust printing and dyeing

  排气印染

· Dry patterning systems

  干式图案系统

· Air-dyeing

  空气染

· Distributed manufacture

  分布式制造

②In the use phase在使用阶段:

· Design for no/low launder

  设计无/低洗

· ‘Short life’ textiles

  ~q~短命~q~纺织品

· Technical coatings to reduce washing

  技术涂料减少洗涤

· Innovative and informative labeling

  创新和信息丰富的标签

· Localisation

  本土化

· Natural energy systems

  自然能源系统

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5

Design that Explores Clean / Better Technologies

探索清洁/更好技术的设计

How can technology be used to make more sustainable textile? Innovation in industry to reduce water, chemical and energy consumption plus advancements in virtual design.

如何利用技术制造更可持续的纺织品?工业创新,降低水、化学和能源消耗,以及虚拟设计的进步。

Replacing systems of production with less energy consuming and smarter technologies to reduce environmental impacts.

以更少的能源消耗和更智能的技术取代生产系统,以减少对环

声明:该文观点仅代表作者本人,加国头条 属于信息发布平台,加国头条 仅提供信息存储空间服务。

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